Bookings: SANParks, PO Box
3542 Knysna, 6570,
Call +27(0) 44 302 5606, fax +27(0) 44 302
5627
Email: cathyv@sanparks.org,
or visit the
website: www.footprint.co.za/harkerville.htm
A maximum number of 12 people per day are allowed.
Tip: Carry
light, 15kg or less, as the terrain is rough and there is some
steep, slippery rocks, inching along narrow exposed ledges and
crossing narrow bridges. People with a fear of heights may experience
problems at some of the steep rock faces.
Cycle Tours: if cycling
is more the way to go, contact Tony Cook at Mountain Biking Africa
on 082 783 8392 or info@kynsnaforesttours.co.za
The first 11km of the day
one pass through indigenous forest, with the tantalising calls
of Knysna turaco, Knysnaloerie (scientific Toraco corythaix,
Roberts no.370), above ancient tree ferns, cinnabar bracket fungi
and startled frogs, something new at every turn.
Around mid-morning hikers arrive at a plot of Californian Redwood
trees, experimental and planted in 1925. It’s a pleasant
spot for a break, under these 100m spongy-barked giants, as well
as a photographic opportunity.
The route continues to meander towards the shore, the roar of
the ocean increasing, before finally reaching a cliff top overlooking
the spectacular rocky coastline. Vertiginous steps dive to a
pebbly beach – a good place for lunch before the chains.
Most of our group found the chains to be an anti-climax, despite
clinging onto a slick chain above crashing waves.
The hike along the rocky shoreline, where waves crash over orange-covered
lichen rocks of this wild coast is about 4 km, nostrils filled
with salty spray, wild rosemary and sage, while squawking seagulls
float on thermals. Progress is slow because there are a number
of obstacles along the way, taking time to negotiate, such as
clambering around a rock face, aided with chains and several
ladders.
The day ended with a steep climb to the plateau, which could
cause problems for those who suffer with vertigo. Once on top,
the trail follows the cliff edge for a while, passing through
fynbos, before finally turning inland to the Sinclair Hut.
The hut is situated on high ground in a clearing with a backdrop
of pine plantation and unfortunately no sea view. Two rooms with
bunk beds and mattresses are separated by an undercover braai
area with firewood provided, along with an axe.
After crossing the escarpment for 2km on the second day, there’s
a steep descent to a bay where, on a previous trip, I’d
been fortunate to see two otters cross the beach before swimming
in the river.
An exciting morning with more obstacles - chains, rock scrambling
on slippery salt-covered rocks, a chain ladder, route finding
and narrow bridges. If it’s hot, the water looks inviting,
but you should be a good swimmer because the sea is unforgiving,
tossing and turning bodies in a tumble dryer of churning waves.
After 5km, hikers reach Kranshoek, at the end of a beach and
where the path goes through indigenous forest as it climbs steeply
to the cliff top, only to find picnickers enjoying the view.
At this point it’s tempting to catch a lift back to the
forest station but don’t, rather continue inland, passing
through more indigenous forest, until Harkerville is reached.
Harkerville Hiking Trail is spectacular, thanks to the Department
of Water Affairs and Forestry, who have done a fine job in its
construction and upkeep.
Karen Watkins (Author of Adventure Walks & Scrambles
in the Cape Peninsula) |
