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What a privilege to camp in a cedar plantation under a sky packed with so many stars making it difficult to identify constellations. Surely it does not get better than this. But it did, on top of Krakadouw, in the northern Cederberg. Krakadouw is not a peak you look at and say: “I will climb that.” You cannot even seen it on your approach, and it is insignificant seen from the N7 going north past Clanwilliam, however, it is on my list of the Big Six peaks of the Western Cape. Why? Because it’s a peak with character - a challenging peak full of nooks and crannies and not for the faint hearted - it takes fitness and good route finding. Despite the way being marked with cairns, even so, we lost our way a number of times and also lost three members of our ten-person group. There is a cave on the peak, which in itself is a challenge to find, hidden among cracks on the summit. But, if you are experienced and fit, take up the challenge and go and explore. Submitted by Karen Watkins (Published in Buite Burger (Die Burger) on 29 July)
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| Krakadouw – Cederberg |
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The route starts with a dreadful 12-kilometre jeep track from the highest point on Pakhuispas, 890m, where you leave your car. If you have time visit the nearby site of Leipoldt’s Grave.
As we walked through fascinating fynbos and rock formations that inspired our imaginations we looked back at the peak Faith, unseen behind it are Hope and Charity. After almost two hours we came to a fork in the road, the left goes to the settlement Heuingvlei but we took the road to the right.
A further one-hour walk brought us to the shelter. This was already taken by a group of Bishop’s boys so we camped in a nearby grove of trees, 945m. These turned out to be the rare, endangered Cedars, Widdringtonia cederbergensis. The grove was probably planted because this is not their normal habitat; they usually grow on higher slopes, between rocks. Cedar trees were initially wiped out because they were used as telephone poles, then by man, because of too-frequent fires. But thanks to the dedicated group, Friends of the Cederberg, the trees are being planted in the hopes that one day the area will be covered with them. Personally, I would love to see donkeys return to the area and be used by hikers, along with a guide from the local community. Some members of the group disagreed with me because they were bothered by donkeys during the night and in the early hours next day.
On day two, after retracing steps to the hut, we gradually ascended on a path through thick fynbos to a grove of Cedars and another possible campsite with water nearby. We filled our water bottles because this was the last water until we reached the upper slopes.
Almost one-hour from the start the path turned up the mountain alongside a dry gorge; the slopes dotted with dead and live Cedars. We followed cairns along a ridge above the gorge with the occasional rock scramble.
At around 1,400m we came to water, shortly followed by an arch with a pool. After scrambling over rocks we had some serious route-finding when cairns showed the route going off to the left, out of the ravine.
The route then went back into the ravine, eventually topping out on a plateau where we had to cross a gorge on a chock rock. The route then went right and up a narrow crack before reaching an awkward rock scramble, made easier when we removed backpacks. Not much further, after passing through a crack, we reached the Krakadouw plateau, a strange sight with a broken surface, strange rock formations, two beacons that looked close together but were not. No wonder it’s called Krakadouw. Getting from one beacon to another necessitates crossing a chock-rock and scaling the face on the opposite side - and there is no cell phone reception if you come unstuck. The views from the summit are amazing with Clanwilliam dam shimmering below and the peaks of the Cederberg to the south.
We then searched for the cave and our accommodation for the night – a challenge all on its own. It is situated in one of many crevices on the summit with no view and only a trickle of water. We were lucky to find a pool here and there after rain over the past week.
Day three is long and tiring, retracing steps for three hours to the shelter and then a three-plus-hour walk along the jeep track followed by a long drive home. And believe me, there are more hills on the way out than on the way in, so make sure you have cold beers in your vehicle. Enjoy!
If you go:
Bookings: CapeNature 021 659 3500, R55 per person per night, plus a one-off payment of R35 for those who do not have a Wild Card, fees must be paid 10 days after booking.
Take the R27 to Clanwilliam and take the turn-off to Clanwilliam and Calvinia. Continue past Leipoldt’s grave, which is on the left, and Kliphuis picnic site on the right for a further 3.4km to the highest point and a parking area.
Tips: there was little water en route and the temperatures can be extreme. Carry as light as possible because you have to haul packs and yourself over rock scrambles on the ascent.
Karen Watkins (Author of Adventure Walks & Scrambles in
the Cape Peninsula)
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Krakadouw – Cederberg, Western Cape | Cape Town Hikes | Hiking
Guides for the KrakadouwHiking Trail located in the Cederberg in Western Cape |
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