The previous morning, after
breakfast on a sun dappled deck overlooking glittering False
Bay, our group of nine hikers and two guides left the recently
opened Silvermine Tented Camp to hike 17.2km to Constantia Nek.
Fortunately the trailmakers decided not to climb Constantiaberg
but followed a lower contour to the manganese mines on what used
to be a little-known, and consequently, overgrown path.
What is rapidly becoming the most popular tea-spot on the Cape
Peninsula is the boardwalk above Blackburn Kloof, (also known
as Blackburn Ravine) so much so that there was a queue of people
waiting to take our bench. The viewing platform is the place
to stop and enjoy the scenery before continuing down Blackburn’s
Kloof.
The rock wall to the left of the kloof has always held a geological
fascination for me with its mud splattered appearance and streaks
of manganese. This path used to be loose underfoot and once again
we were in awe of the path-builders. These previous unemployed
people who come from the surrounding communities, and are mostly
women, labouring with hammocks to lift enormous rocks before
positioning them, sometimes in unpleasant conditions. The result
is that they are halfway through the task of rehabilitating 500km
of paths within TMNP.
Below, snaking along the coast is Chapman’s Peak Drive,
named for a ship’s pilot. In 1607 the skipper of a British
Ship Contest, found his vessel becalmed in what is now Hout Bay
and sent his pilot, John Chapman to row ashore to find provisions.
The pilot recorded the bay as Chapman’s Chaunce (chance)
and the name stuck on all of the East Indies maps.
Turning off from the ravine we joined the contour that heads
to the Manganese Mines above the turquoise bay dotted with yachts
and fishing boats. Our guide Zukile shared information about
life in his hometown in the Eastern Cape and how plants were
used for bedding and horse’s saddles, as well as the medicinal
uses. After telling us about one such plant being used as a paste
for toothache, he added the warning that it must be rubbed on
the offending tooth, otherwise…………….leaving
our minds to boggle!
Standing above the well-preserved fortifications of the East
Fort C1797, Zukile told the story of the disused mines. The manganese
was found high on the mountain so a way had to be found to transport
the ore to the waiting ships below. The remains of a jetty can
be seen below, however control of the ore was often lost on the
descent. A combination of propelling the ore down to the sea
and the decrease in the quality of the ore caused the mine to
close in 1911, after only two years of operation.
Leaving the mine we continued our traverse of Constantiaberg
stopping for lunch under trees in a ravine, the only shade for
a long time. After welcome sustenance we continued to the tar
road for a short distance before turning off towards Vlakkenberg,
our final ascent of the day. This section of the mountain has
magnificent examples of the Cape Folding geology of our mountain.
A final descent, unfortunately marring the beauty of the day
as we passed through thick alien vegetation to our left and vineyards
on the right and then the sprawling Cape Flats and the Hottentots
Holland mountain range occasionally viewed through the smog.
After welcome beer at Constantia Nek, three of us made our way
through the restricted Orange Kloof area above Hout Bay to the
tented camp. We had been walking for about six hours from the
Silvermine tented Camp and what a pleasure to luxuriate with
a hot shower while looking at the surrounding mountains through
an open window.
Each of the tented camps has a theme and the Orange Kloof one
is forest, nestled among ancient Afromontane forest. What a pleasure
to view the surrounding peaks from the raised viewing tower before
relaxing around the fire in front of the boma. The so-called
tents are luxurious with thick mattresses in two or four-bed
structures, constructed from alien vegetation harvested from
within the park.
Day two passes through the Orange Kloof valley before ascending
Disa Gorge to Woodhead Dam. Walk through Valley of the Red Gods,
finishing at the cable station for a ride down.
The camp is luxurious, the setting unmatched, the guides are
knowledgeable and confident and at only R300 per person with
a Wild Card, it’s a bargain! The trail is self-catered
but your food, clothes, bedding and toiletries are transported
for you. There’s a fully equipped kitchen with gas cookers
and fridge. The hike is strenuous, but if you are a regular hiker
and would like to enjoy sleeping in your park, then book now.
The price is aimed at local hikers and two sections of the five
nights, six day Tented Classic Trail are now open.
Karen Watkins (Author of Adventure Walks & Scrambles
in the Cape Peninsula)
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