The trail is mainly flat, however this does not mean it is easy.
The bays are ideal for swimming or crayfish and mussel collection, with a permit of course during the season.
Dotted along the coastline are monuments to fishermen who have drowned in exceptionally large waves. Hikers may be lucky to see whales breach or dolphins and seals playfully surf on white-capped waves.
Paths climb along rugged, crumbling cliffs and in spring are covered with carpets of flowers interspersed with various succulent species, covering the soil to prevent wind erosion.
Day one was unspectacular, except for a wheel passing us by. Grounding to a halt we realised the wheel was ours, it had shearing off, most unwelcome in the middle of nowhere.
We “Keeping the sea on our right,” said Wynand Wickens whoe had driven us to the start at Brand se Baai.
For the next six-hours we slogged through soft sand – it felt like we were walking with the brake on.
Now and then we climbed to rocky headlands and followed jeep tracks. It was an opportunity to switch off, meditate and slow down from city life.
At the end of the day we enjoyed sundowners and snacks at Jakkalshok. That night it didn’t take long before we were lulled to sleep by the oceans’ roar.
Early next day we were woken by breaching whales luring us from sleeping bags because they sounded so close.
On day two we had five hours of enticing jagged coastline, rocky bays and points pounded by whipped white waves resembling meringue.
The highlight was coming across a truck with a thick pipe, like a vacuum cleaner, pumping and filtering the ocean in search of diamonds. We stopped to talk, fascinated to learn about the mining operation.
“Divers enter the sea holding the pipe. He then uses it to suck gravel from the ocean floor which is then sorted by the machine on land,” said the foreman.
Later, we had lunch at a huge arch while some of us scratched through the course sand in search of riches. At Gert du Toit Bay we were pleased to see Wynand, knowing that he had our gear but, more importantly, cold beers.
Wynand grew up in the area and is almost hewn out of the rock. He joined us for drinks, telling us stories and showing us some of the stones, such as a black obsidian. We didn't have the heart to tell him that environmental awareness means putting your cigarette butts in your pocket.
Meanwhile the sun plummeted into the horizon, turning the sky from pink, to purple and then gold. All the time screeching seagulls dived and soared in an acrobatic display – magic!
On day three we came to Duiwegat with its scary but breathtaking potholes with sheer drops to the swirling, crashing ocean below. An agitated dove flew from the hole, scaring us in the process.
Geelwalkaroo with its variety of colour is visible from where the old coastline was 10 million years ago. Our overnight stop was Helga’s Heights, the highest point on the trail, with breathtaking views north and south.
Day three and four feature fewer beaches and more cliff-walking, taking approximately seven hours.
The fourth day is the most beautiful with a narrow winding path snaking along rugged cliffs with towering columns of rugged rock eroded into caves and narrow cracks knee-deep in mussel shells. On the way we noticed areas that were being rehabilitated, protected by bright green plastic netting.
The path wends its way to the beach and Robbe Island, covered with grunting, squirming, smelly seals.
Closer to the mouth of the Olifantsriver we were excited to see red beak oyster catchers. We were not as happy to see civilisation, after four days of wilderness, the holiday resort of Strandfontein on the opposite side of the river.
The day ended just inside the mouth of the Olifantsriver where we watched Greater and Lesser flamingos and pelicans wade in the river and then soar gracefully overhead. The camp is sheltered beneath a cliff, on the riverbank.
The final day was an adventure because we had to find our way along the desolate, wild shore of the Olifantsriver, where the only rule is to keep to the river. It’s a twitchers paradise with a variety of water birds, herons, ibises and fish eagles.
After squelching through mud and scrambling over boulders we were relieved to arrive where we began, at Boesmangrot. It is an unfortunate testament to bad taste with its stone amphitheatre built into a cave overlooking the Olifantsriver. Accommodation is in rough wooden shacks but there are warm showers. The evening ended with a magnificent braai prepared by Wynie and his wife Ronel.
Despite no showers, drop toilets and sore hip-bones from the hard ground the Swart Tobie is well worth doing.
Costs and bookings: The 80km, five-day trail is R700 per hiker, including transfer to and from the start and end points and a braai on the last night. Call Jacana Collection on 086 152 2262, 011 656 0606, info@jacanacollection or visit www.jacanacollection.co.za
Best time: overall is August to November but flower time is good, from late July to early September, or crayfish season from mid-November to April.
What to take: It is a slackpacking trail but you will need everything to be self-sufficient. Water and firewood are supplied, large items are transported. Don’t forget a trowel and burn your toilet paper.
Directions: The trail starts on Groenvlei farm near Koekenaap on the Olifants River, 450 kilometre from Cape Town and 1200 kilometre from Bloemfontein.
Length: Most days are 16 kilometre, the last is 18 kilometre, marked with green flags to show half-way and overnight spots; red flags show where to ascend or descend; white flags mark places of interest. No maximum/minimum group size.
Karen Watkins (Author of Adventure Walks & Scrambles in
the Cape Peninsula)
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